The Woodhouse Group nears completion of the University of Waterloo's “Velocity Centre” located in the Communitech Hub @ 151 Charles St W. Kitchener Ontario.
Tuesday, July 5, 2016
Hanging very heavy carriage doors
Hi - I was lucky enough to find a great Amish builder who made me two pairs of solid mahogany carriage doors for my garage. Each opening is 8x7 and my contractor added additional studs for extra support. The builder estimates them at 130lbs each but it took 4 guys to get each door off the truck and I can barely lift a door a few inches.
My GC is a bit nervous about getting the install right since its hung on hinges that are lag bolted to the underlying structure. The frames aren't perfectly square so he will need to do some shimming to get it just right. The issue is that he can't shim the jambs because the lag screws go deep into the supporting frame. So I suggested that he build a temp support to hold the doors in the exact closed position he wants it and then use that to line up the hinges.
Anyone try anything like this before? Given the weight we are worried that they will shift a bit and then will be out of alignment. Or over time they will sag. The lags have a out a 1/32 of an inch of play within the hole of the hinge. Plus the hinges are mounted on the face of the building frame so he can't shim it horizontally.
My GC is a bit nervous about getting the install right since its hung on hinges that are lag bolted to the underlying structure. The frames aren't perfectly square so he will need to do some shimming to get it just right. The issue is that he can't shim the jambs because the lag screws go deep into the supporting frame. So I suggested that he build a temp support to hold the doors in the exact closed position he wants it and then use that to line up the hinges.
Anyone try anything like this before? Given the weight we are worried that they will shift a bit and then will be out of alignment. Or over time they will sag. The lags have a out a 1/32 of an inch of play within the hole of the hinge. Plus the hinges are mounted on the face of the building frame so he can't shim it horizontally.
TXV Woes
Ok I had a no cool call the other day that has been giving me trouble. I found a bad condenser fan motor and a dirty evaporator coil. Cleaned the coil and replaced the motor. Turned the unit on and it purred like a kitten. pressures where spot on. The unit was cooling great. I leave and go to two more calls, and the shop calls me and tells me the customer called and the unit quit cooling. I finish the call im on and head back over there the compressor wasn't running. I ohm it out and all is good so I turn it on and it is running. I notice that the suction line is not sweating now and reach down and feel of it and the liquid line and they feel to be about the same temp. I go to the truck and get my gauges hook them up and I have a very low suction about 38# and the liquid line pressure is about 184# which was standing pressure for the current outdoor ambient of 96 degrees. next thing I know the compressor starts bypassing and then trips on overload. My first thought was a compressor valve issue. I cooled the compressor off tapped on the top of the compressor a bit and turned it back on. Pressures where the same so I jarred the condenser a little, and the pressures went back to normal. So now im definitely thinking compressor valves. I inform the customer that if it happens again we may have to replace the condenser since it is r22 unit. Another tech and a helper go out there a few days later and he checks to see if he can get it to pump down and he determines that the problem is a bad txv so he goes and gets an r22 valve and replaces it. This was friday and as far as i know the unit is still running. My problem is that I have never seen a closed down txv that didn't have a high liquid line pressure an low suction and I havent seen one make the compressor over heat. Freeze the Evap. coil yes. and never one that would work intermittently. The liquid line pressure not changing is what led me to believe that the problem was the compressor and not the txv. Can someone explain to me what is going on. Thank you
Poor sealing fridge door gasket.
Might there be a tradesman's trick for getting aftermarket gaskets to seal properly. I have a fridge that I'm told had this gasket replaced about 5 years ago. Even at that time the gasket fit was as you see it in the attached images. They've made no previous attempt to get a better fit. I just looked at it and the installation looks proper -- The gasket simply seems like it has no extension (accordion effect) at the two corners.
The poor seal caused much condensation both inside and out. Unfortunately this is taking its toll in the form of minor isolated corrosion (as seen in pic) along with a constant mildew problem. This Kenmore (#2539768481) is probably 12-15 years old and, while still in otherwise very good condition, I'm not sure investing in a $100+ genuine gasket is worth it.
Any tricks-of-the-trade appreciated.
.
......
The poor seal caused much condensation both inside and out. Unfortunately this is taking its toll in the form of minor isolated corrosion (as seen in pic) along with a constant mildew problem. This Kenmore (#2539768481) is probably 12-15 years old and, while still in otherwise very good condition, I'm not sure investing in a $100+ genuine gasket is worth it.
Any tricks-of-the-trade appreciated.
.
......
Kairak condensing units
Hey guys I have never worked with a Kairak condensing system before. Its a big condensing unit with like 3 compressors in it. two walk in coolers and a walk in freezer with some cook line equipment share this 'rack' system they call in here in TN. I replaced and expansion valve because of freezing up and low pressure. No luck with the new TXV I checked all 4 evaps in the walk in coolers and they all are running the same. about 0 deg saturation on suction and 90 deg on the head side.404A, Another complaint their having is the walk in freezer with 2 evaps is running about 20 deg. Ive asked my manager if the system could be low on charge he said no the receiver on the condenser is just over40 percent full. Anyone work on these before?
Monday, July 4, 2016
INstalled -- Sq. D
Electrical Protection - at Least on most typical Surges .
I also have a 220 Volt Smoother : Smoother Power - Saves Boards
http://global220volt.com/product/tripp-lite-lr2000/
https://www.zoro.com/square-d-surge-protection-device-1-phase-120240v-hepd80/i/G4618844/
I also have a 220 Volt Smoother : Smoother Power - Saves Boards
http://global220volt.com/product/tripp-lite-lr2000/
https://www.zoro.com/square-d-surge-protection-device-1-phase-120240v-hepd80/i/G4618844/
Building inspection process for a deck?
Hello all, I am in the final stages of designing a deck for my house using the IRC 2012 guide (some changes to 2015 IRC), and am about to submit for permits. This is the first time I have had to deal with a building inspector and permitting process so I am unsure how in depth I should be taking this. I have designed it adhering to code thus far, however I am now seeing areas were the code is a inconvenience. My thoughts are that I may be overestimating the level of scrutiny the inspector with apply, and how much leniency they give to slight inconsistencies. I am in New Jersey, and my district has adopted the 2015 IRC code. I feel as if when I am looking through pictures of decks online, I see so many code violations that would make my life so much easier. Such as...
-After looking through many documents, it appears you are quite limited in the amount of step down you can get from the door to the deck. When adhering to the allowable ledger bolt patterns and the band joist bolts, without completely changing the size of your joists, you are stuck with practically no step down. I am using 2x10 joists for the deck, and house band joist is 2x10, which by code would only allow a .75" step. That is not great for snow in New jersey. Check out link to confirm
2015 IRC Deck Ledger Bolt Placement | ProTradeCraft
-Another area where I wish I has some room was the footings 5ft from the foundation rule. Unless you intend on digging your deck footings to the elevation of your house footings (unrealistic), than you have to space the deck off further than 5ft. This confuses me as the none of the maximum allowable joist overhangs in the code can reach span that 5ft distance. In my case this is not critical, as I am right on the edge of 5ft, however if I could cheat a little I would. Do inspections measure from the footer to the house? Pier to the house? Post to the house? Or, are they quite strict about the footer to the house distance?
-Stairs landing on concrete pads. Code says stairs must land on an area with footings of proper size and below frost. I have seen countless pictures of stairs landing right on concrete slabs, sometimes, just concrete blocks. ?
-How does an inspector, inspect your ledger attachments if he/she cannot access your interior band joist? Obviously, an owner w cannot demolish the floor to access the band joist? How does he very you are attaching the ledger to the right spots on the band joist (edge distances, no drill, no pass zones, esc)?
Thank you guys, I really need some advice here
-After looking through many documents, it appears you are quite limited in the amount of step down you can get from the door to the deck. When adhering to the allowable ledger bolt patterns and the band joist bolts, without completely changing the size of your joists, you are stuck with practically no step down. I am using 2x10 joists for the deck, and house band joist is 2x10, which by code would only allow a .75" step. That is not great for snow in New jersey. Check out link to confirm
2015 IRC Deck Ledger Bolt Placement | ProTradeCraft
-Another area where I wish I has some room was the footings 5ft from the foundation rule. Unless you intend on digging your deck footings to the elevation of your house footings (unrealistic), than you have to space the deck off further than 5ft. This confuses me as the none of the maximum allowable joist overhangs in the code can reach span that 5ft distance. In my case this is not critical, as I am right on the edge of 5ft, however if I could cheat a little I would. Do inspections measure from the footer to the house? Pier to the house? Post to the house? Or, are they quite strict about the footer to the house distance?
-Stairs landing on concrete pads. Code says stairs must land on an area with footings of proper size and below frost. I have seen countless pictures of stairs landing right on concrete slabs, sometimes, just concrete blocks. ?
-How does an inspector, inspect your ledger attachments if he/she cannot access your interior band joist? Obviously, an owner w cannot demolish the floor to access the band joist? How does he very you are attaching the ledger to the right spots on the band joist (edge distances, no drill, no pass zones, esc)?
Thank you guys, I really need some advice here
Toronto board of health approves supervised injection sites
Final approval left to council after emotional board meeting sees overwhelming support for harm reduction measure
Aint No Sheriffs Star.... lol
That Star of David thing..... thats something that also should be setting off alarms in peoples heads.....
Its not the fact that Trump is trying to tie Hillary to jewish cash.... but its the fact that Trump used that image that they got from a white supremacist post...... and reused it....
Do you want someone that dang stupid sitting in the white house ??? The guy is one ignorant sack of doodie.
Trump can say what he wants about the star..... but man... it doesnt take a 3 yr old to fiqure out what they are trying to say with the star and the pile of cash....
Maybe the US can get Mossad to deal with Trump...... in their own special way.... I know if I was in government... I would at least be considering that option.... no matter which side of the table I was sitting on.
Its not the fact that Trump is trying to tie Hillary to jewish cash.... but its the fact that Trump used that image that they got from a white supremacist post...... and reused it....
Do you want someone that dang stupid sitting in the white house ??? The guy is one ignorant sack of doodie.
Trump can say what he wants about the star..... but man... it doesnt take a 3 yr old to fiqure out what they are trying to say with the star and the pile of cash....
Maybe the US can get Mossad to deal with Trump...... in their own special way.... I know if I was in government... I would at least be considering that option.... no matter which side of the table I was sitting on.
Removing / replacing silicone caulk
We have a stainless steel sink (undermount) attached to a granite countertop. Over the years, the silicone caulk no longer creates a tight seal between the sink and the counter...therefore water is able to run down into the cabinet. The sink doesn't feel loose, but it appears to have 'sagged' over the years. Should I remove the old caulk before applying new? I'm guessing the answer to that is yes, but what is the best method to remove the old caulk??
Thanks in advance for any advice!
Thanks in advance for any advice!
Lennox SureLight ICF board replacement issues
Hello. On my Lennox G60UHV-36B-090-07, while in AC mode my furnace fan blows warm air, compressor won't turn on. I replaced the control board (p/n 100870-01) with a new board (p/n 100870-03) ... everybody who sells the board says that the two boards are identical. I turned all power off prior to replacing. I changed 1 connection at a time to ensure that all the leads were terminated identically. I also took pictures of connections prior to removing them, and verified everything was correct afterwards with the picture. I powered on unit from breaker and the board lit up like normal, but the thermostat is 100% dead. No power bring received. I double checked the terminal block several times and the wires are tight and terminated the same as previous when the thermostat worked fine. My house has two systems with 2 identical thermostats, so I brought up the tstat from the other unit and it too was dead when plugged into this unit, but it worked fine again when I returned it to the 2nd system, so I don't think my problem is a blown tstat. Plus the t-stat is only a month old. What is going on with my dead t-stat?
Have I forgotten a step? Is there a reset I missed? Little green LED on board lights like normal, so board is getting power. Just not tstat power.
Wrong board received due to a slightly different part number that every dealer says is right?
Did I blow the board? If so, how? power was off when I swapped boards, and all wires were terminated correctly.
HELP!!!!!
THANKS!!!!
Zach
Have I forgotten a step? Is there a reset I missed? Little green LED on board lights like normal, so board is getting power. Just not tstat power.
Wrong board received due to a slightly different part number that every dealer says is right?
Did I blow the board? If so, how? power was off when I swapped boards, and all wires were terminated correctly.
HELP!!!!!
THANKS!!!!
Zach
Sunday, July 3, 2016
My New GFCI wont reset! Please help
Hi, purchased this home bout year ago. It was built in 2005. Have one GFCI in unfinished basement. I tripped outside outlet that seems like connected to this gfci. Went downstairs and replaced gfci with new one as instructed there is two sets of black, white and bare so i tested the line and put set that gets around 120v in Line slot and no voltage reading on load. As soon as i turnes on breaker again i have red light came on solid. Please help!!
Honest Questions...
Looking for honest answers.
What was the real reason for introducing R410a (for widespread use) and why did it get this far with the high GWP?
To top it off, one of the proposed alternatives is already in R410a, so what caused them to go to all the bother of blending in the first place? I see may have to do with flammability, but the question stands... Why is the safety aspect less important now?
In my field this would be considered a "callback"...
What was the real reason for introducing R410a (for widespread use) and why did it get this far with the high GWP?
To top it off, one of the proposed alternatives is already in R410a, so what caused them to go to all the bother of blending in the first place? I see may have to do with flammability, but the question stands... Why is the safety aspect less important now?
In my field this would be considered a "callback"...
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