Sunday, May 31, 2015

Leviton timers in parallel

A few years ago our electrician connected two Leviton timers in parallel to drive a remote fan load. These are the timers:

LTB60-1LZ > Preset Timer Switches > Electronic Timer Switches > Lighting Controls > Products from Leviton Electrical and Electronic Products

The timers have failed a few times over the years, and apparently you aren't supposed to connect them in parallel (meaning either of the two timers can drive the fan load).

I did some research, and could solve the problem with a bit of rewiring and a Switch Remote from Leviton like this one:

http://www.leviton.com/OA_HTML/Levit...sp?item=305771

But I'd rather have the two timers in parallel, and stick with that Leviton product because it matches others in our house. That leads me to the question:

Is there a product that can take two switched 120v inputs (on a single circuit), power a single output when either or both of the inputs is hot, and isolate the inputs from one another?

If we call the output from the timers 'A' and 'B' and make those the inputs to my desired product; it would pass through only one of 'A' or 'B' when hot. The other input would be isolated. Examples:

A hot -> Output hot from A, B isolated
B hot -> Output hot from B, A isolated
A and B hot -> Output hot from A or B, other input isolated

I think this could be recreated with two relays and a third input 'C' that was always hot. The switched inputs A and B would trigger the relays allowing C through to the fan load. So perhaps this is the device I want... just something that combines multiple relays for one supply?

Thanks for ideas.

Bryant Evolution - Installed correctly?

We recently had a Bryant Evolution heat pump system installed, but noticed a couple of issues right away. I was hoping the experts on this forum could help clarify if the system was installed correctly.

Issue 1: Dampers - Are they Evolution compatible?
I wonder if the contractor installed the correct Evolution compatible modulating Dampers. For example, Zone 1 damper Model number is DAMPACT45DEG-B HF21KJ005. Is this damper Evolution compatible? I read somewhere that the correct model number is DAMPRND

There is very little variation in airflow. When in heating mode, there seems to be a lot of pressure on one of the ducts resulting in quite a lot of noise. I would have expected the systems to automatically adjust the airflow to a more reasonable level

Issue 2: Vibration in Heat Mode
There appears to be a lot of vibration coming from the outside unit in heat mode. The vibration appears to be transferred to the house wall via the line set, making a section of the outside wall vibrate and transferring noise inside of the house where the lineset comes into the wall. Is this normal with Evolution systems?

Here is the list of the equipment I have:
- Heat Pump: 288BNV048-A
- Fan Coil: FE4ANF005
- Damper Control Module: SYSTXBB4ZC01
- Connex Control: SYSTBBECC01-A
- Dampers: DAMPACT45DEG-B HF21KJ005

See Photos attached

Many Thanks for your help!

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GREAT NEW TOOL

I was at the Milwaukee tool service center near Seattle and they had a new cordless M18 metal shear tool on display. I've had my dewalt corded shears for 5 years and it's been fine. However there have been many occasions when I've been in a crawl space and couldn't plug it it easily. I made the purchase and used them for the first time this week. Here's my what I found: The tool cuts TWICE as fast as my old shears. It's very comfortable and the swivel head is easy to unlock and rotate. The only drawback is the price. $200 just for the raw tool. The good news is I just sold my old dewalt shears on Amazon for $75 so that helped. Here's a link:

http://www.milwaukeetool.com/power-t...rdless/2635-20

Trane air handler blower not always running

I'm having the same problem after 9 years of flawless service from my Handler, ive had a tech out here and they can't seem to find a problem, they checked the wiring behind my thermostat in my air handler, checked voltage, he doesn't seem to think that its the blower because he says that usually they either blow or don't or make some sort of noise if going out, the blower blows at full speed and when it does it doesn't seem to have any problems doing it and seems to think its the fan control board but really isn't sure and is calling Trane in the A.M.
What are the chances that its my actual Thermostat causing all of these problems?

Its starting to drive me nuts all of this turning on and off and sometimes not coming back on until I raise it above the temp in the house for 2 mins and then lower the temp back down a couple again until it decides to come on again.

Olympic Wrestlin'

A Russian and Ole the Norwegian wrestler were set to square off for the Olympic Gold Medal. Before the final match, the Norwegian wrestling coach came to Ole and said, "Now, don't forget all the research we've done on this Russian. He's never lost a match because of this 'pretzel' hold he has". Whatever you do, do not let him get you in that hold! If he does, you're finished'. Ole nodded in acknowledgment.

As the match started, Ole and the Russian circled each other several times, looking for an opening. All of a sudden, the Russian lunged forward, grabbing Ole and wrapping him up in the dreaded pretzel hold. A sigh of disappointment arose from the crowd and the coach buried his face in his hands, for he knew all was lost. He couldn't watch the inevitable happen.

Suddenly, there was a scream, then a cheer from the crowd and the coach raised his eyes just in time to watch the Russian go flying up in the air. His back hit the mat with a thud and Ole collapsed on top of him making the pin and winning the match. The crowd went crazy. The coach was astounded.

When he finally got his wrestler alone, he asked, "How did you ever get out of that hold? No one has ever done it before!"

Ole answered, "Vell, I vas ready to give up ven he got me in dat hold, but at da last moment, I opened my eyes and saw dis pair of testicles right in front of my face... I had nuttin' to lose so wid my last ounce of strength I stretched out my neck and bit dose babies just as hard as I could."

So the trainer exclaimed, "That's what finished him off!"

"Vel not really. You'd be amazed how strong you get ven you bite your own nuts!"

Cluster flies

I have a small cottage in upstate NY. I visit it about once a month in the winter. When I get the heat going in the winter it prompts cluster flies to emerge from - somewhere I don;t know where? And they live about a day and then drop to the ground at the windows.

How do I get rid of these flies and where are they living in the house?

Thanks,

Dean

Driers with uv dye

When I used to work with residential refrigerators and a compressor needed to be replaced I always installed a new filter drier with dye. We called them dye driers. My thought was if it ever had a leak it would be that much easier to find. So why don't ac manufacturers do this? It would be such a time saver.

Ann Coulter at it again...

Ya gotta love Ann Coulter (well maybe not that way... grin)... she has more gonads than most men... she definitely tells it like it is:

http://nypost.com/2015/05/31/ann-cou...-middle-class/

I just wish folks would wise up...
However I am not holding my breath.

automated thermostat

Hi-

What I am trying to do is turn my LP gas furnace on by a cell phone in our RV, before we get to camp site so RV is warm. I have found a GSM relay that will allow me to do that as long as I buy a prepaid SIM phone card for the GSM relay.

Here is the relay that I believe will work
GSM-RELAY Remote control switch (gsm controller)(relay control switch)

It has 7 sets of Normally open contacts, that close when it gets a phone call or text message. I would like some help on how to wire the GSM relay in with the 2 wire thermostat in the RV. once I get to the RV I want to use the thermostat to control the furnace, just use the relay device to warm it do set temp on thermostat before I get there. Will I need to add external relay or 3 position switch to make this work? If you could supply a wiring diagram that would be great!

Looking for lampholder

My floor lamp recently fell over and the lampholder broke off. I've been trying to find a replacement on the Internet to no avail. Hopefully someone can point me in the right direction. Thanks!

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Need help with HVAC contractor's license test question!

Hi. I am currently studying to take my contractor's license test and am having trouble with a question in my practice test. I would really appreciate any help explaining how to find the answer as I am just stuck on this one! Also, please let me know if there is a better place to post this.

The question is:
A 5 ton cooling coil removes 3 gallons of condensate per hour. How much of the system's capacity is being used for latent cooling?
A. 1 ton
B. 2 tons
C. 3 tons
D. 4 tons

Thanks for your help

Done by our team lately

Installation of Mitsubishi Electric VRF systems + DX R410 inverter units + Duct work for a private villa
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Interesting Pump Catastrophic Failure

This happened four years ago with a 1.5" Taco 00 series cast-iron circulator. The case/body of the pump suddenly split wide open around where the suction tied into the volute. I heard a "bang," went to the basement, and shut off the supply to the pressure reducing valve and shut down the boiler (which was not firing at the time). My theory is that there may have been some type of inclusion or other defect in the pump casting that let go. But there was no harm done - the pump is located near a floor drain, so no flooding.

This incident may be food for thought - about what worse might have happened, particularly under different installation circumstances. I don't think the pressure reducing valve (a.k.a. auto fill valve) could have kept up with the leak from both sides of the pump - so we would have had to rely on my low-water cutoff to shut off the boiler. And, without a floor drain near the pump, there could have been flooding damage.

Cast iron is great in many ways - but it is a bit less tough and more susceptible to brittle fracture than steel.

I wish I had taken pix of the pump, but I didn't.

How do you find your hand while playing paycheck poker?

I took a job last week, on a big building, where everyone plays paycheck poker. It's been about 10 years since I have played. How do you find your hand again?

Blower not working for air but does for heat

I have a Central Electricbrand furnace for modular Home model eb20b. The fan blower stopped working. It comes on with heat but not air. I replaced the thermostat and still nothing. The fuses are all on so what's my next step? I just paid to have the outside fan motor ,,blade and capacitor replaced 10 days ago.

Help with auto a/c?

This is my work / service van. 2008 Express 2500.

Was noticing the temperature fluctuating, just by feel of hand. It'd go from cold to cool and it didn't matter if I was accelerating or slowing down. I grab my meter and stick thermometer probe in vent. Sure enough, while just cruising it would go down to 48 or so and almost instantly jump to around 60 then right back down and back up etc....

This is a fairly new van to me since I wrecked my other one. First summer with it. Don't know what had been done in the past so I evacuated system, vacuumed and weighed in charge.

Same thing.

The temperature is constantly fluctuating. BUT, the only clue I can give anyone is that when I'm stopped or parked the quick fluctuations stop. Yes, the temperature does slowly increase stopped or parked but only like a degree per minute. When driving it's all over the place 48-61.

I'm at a loss and hate to take it to an auto ac shop.

I'd quickly say bad compressor except for the fact that if I stop and it's blowing 48 it will slowly (again maybe 1 degree per minute) increase.

What to do?

Attic roof vent motor

The motor is frozen and the attic very hot.Can't find the motor on the internet.
Its a 120 VAC 3.1A 1050 cfm. Attic Vent Inc. Model XLR . Motor is P/N 350003. DOW-136-0-34-XIN-2SP.
Thanks

Well then......

Need advice for first time DIY patio

Hello and thanks for taking some time to read my question and perhaps respond with some advice. To start, here is what I am working with.



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In the picture where you can see the wall jet out a foot or so by the hose is where I would like the patio to end. It will be about 525 sqft. I have a bit of extra stone that I am in the process of moving over to getting a better base down where the patio will be. There seems to already be about 3-4 inches of it, will another 1-2 inches be ok/better/worse?

The retaining wall is not on line with the edge of the house and the angle that it lies on to connect them is graded down enough that if I leveled it there would be a rather large step at the end, unsafely so.

The corner of the retaining wall is curved and even where it is flat I have no clue what to do where the meet.

Finally, I have a crappy wooden step out the back door down to the stone that I would like to somehow blend in with the patio.

I don't think I will need any more base other then the leveling sand, and where I live the cost of living is very low so the I should be able to come in under $1000 for the patio stone I choose. I will be doing all the labor and I am hoping to finish it for $1500-$2000 total if I can.

Any information you can offer me would be great. I have no clue what to do other then what I have gathered from YouTube videos and would appreciate any suggestions and instructions. ASSUME I KNOW NOTHING!

Thanks so much for your time and replies.

The contactor chatters when the thermostat is OFF, but It makes fine when ON?

The contactor on my Goodman air conditioner (Model CKL24-1K) chatters when the thermostat is OFF, but It makes fine when the thermostat is ON. The contactor and capacitor are new. Turning off the power to the transformer at the breaker box eliminates the chatter (and all electricity to the contactor). The thermostat is a ritetemp. I have not checked the transformer output or the voltage at the contactor (I am overseas currently). Any ideas why the chatter occurs only when the thermostat is OFF? Thanks Dustin

Keep blower on after AC off

As it stands now my ac compressor and main blower turn off simultaneously. A thermometer at the first vent from the unit reads 45 degrees. I can manually turn the blower on and get more of that residual cold air in the house. I'd like to do it automatically. I've read the HVAC unit manual and looked over the unit but don't see any adjustments to make that happen. How can I do this? 25 year old HEIR furnace and Tempstar condenser.

Roper Washer leaking water into tub

Hi all,

My Roper washer is leaking water into the tub consistently. It's 24/7 whether it's running or not and if it's not been running for a few days, the tub is filled with water. I can see it's dripping from where the water enters the tub when you do run a cycle. I was hoping to try to fix this myself if it's at all possible. I believe the model number is SM 8525148-A (at least that is the only number I see when I open the lid). There is no leaking outside of the washer at all, it's all contained to the inside.

Thanks in advance,
Jamie

Cruise Control - 2015 Chevy Sonic 1.8 L Automatic Transmission

Looking for information and recommendations for an after market cruise control for this car .

Thanks , :-)
Wyr
God bless

Old Compressor/Condenser is it a 4 ton or 5 ton?

Hi, I joined to get advice on replacing the AC and gas furnace in a 50- year old 1-story house. We have had contractors out to give us bids and we are getting conflicting answers as to whether the compressor is a 4 ton or a 5 ton. The older guys say it is a 5 ton and the young ones say it is a 4 ton. It is a GE that is probably close to thirty years old. The plate on it is worn out but the engraved numbers are GE TA048H1B and 215983 508. Can someone look this up and tell me what size this is? Also the one who told us this was a 4 ton compressor said if we replace with a 5 ton, we would have to replace all the ductwork as it is sized for a 4 ton - is this true? Thank you - we are grateful for your assistance. More questions to follow.

Another low boy gone.




Flues look like ass.. Not much else I could do. Been a busy ass spring for sure.

Second Level Deck Advice?

Hello, I was hoping to get some advice, pointers or ideas on what I'm planning to tackle here within the next few months. I've attached a picture of the side of my house. The balcony you see there is installed on cantilevered joists coming out of the main house. Over the years prior owners have cut away the original joists that stuck out of the wall and installed extension pieces, mated up to the floor joists inside. I guess over time the exposed wood rotted and they did this to firm up the floor of the balcony for more support. As you can imagine, the rot has come back and I need to make repairs. Since I have to get into this project, I'm considering scrapping the whole balcony and going back with a proper walk out deck.

Since I plan on adding support posts and extending it, I've had the thoughts of making a carport or garage underneath so I can take advantage of that covered space. I'd love to fit a 2 car space under there.

I'd also like to pour a slab but could be happy with gravel or other material.

I'm wondering, how to go about starting this and in what order? And if you guys have any opinions or ideas.

I know this will cost some money, but I'm trying not to break the bank, I just want it functional. I'd love to build an attached garage there with a rooftop deck but I think that would be too much to spend, so I'm leaning towards a carport.

What do you think?

Will Silicone adhere to cement board?

I'm going to be using full engineered marble (fake marble) slabs as my shower walls. The company that's making them for me suggests using silicone to adhere them to the substrate. They actually recommended that since there are not grouted areas like there would be with separate tiles and the only potential for water behind them is where I caulk or silicone the joints...to just use greenboard as the substrate.

I had decided to use cement board instead just as an added safety net, but the more I've been thinking, I've come to the question:

Will the silicone stick to cement board?

and furthermore if I decided to take a final precautionary waterproofing step of redguard over the cement board, will silicone stick to redguard?

Thanks in advance

Carrier Performance Boost Series furnace model 59TP5 vs. Comfort Series model 59SC2

Does anyone have any advice about the relative performance of these units as compared to the other, other than the fact that Performance is 95% AFUE and Comfort is 92% (which to me doesn't seem like a sufficient difference to warrant spending a couple thousand more)? I would be interested to hear any observations, and I am particularly interested in knowing whether there is a material difference in noise between the two. Thanks.

Away for a week on vacation - now we're seeing strange flies?

Hi all,

Wife and I were out of town for 7 days last week. Since we've returned, we've noticed about 15-20 larger house flies in our first floor, master bathroom. More specifically, they appeared to be coming and going from a piece of floor molding that was slightly pulled away from the tile flooring. The strangest thing about the flies is that they're incredible slow, to the point that I can pick them up in my hands and they do not fly away. I'm wondering if this means the flies have been free to roam in the house, and have gorged themselves to the point of being immobile or something?

Anyway, I got under the house into the crawl space today to look for any immediate explanations, but I'm seeing nothing. I also popped the access panel open for the plumbing (from inside the house), nothing in there either.

Any thoughts? We've lived in the house about 3 months now, and have NEVER seen this type (or presence) of fly. I have to assume it has something to do with the lower activity in the house last week, but I'm only guessing.

Thanks-

Booster fans ever work?

Customer wanted to know why they didnt have much airflow on 2nd floor, said they were told when they bought the house there was a booster fan to get more air upstairs, were told that not much else could be done unless they tore out walls and redid the ductwork.

Found this booster fan, 6" diameter, inside the 10" pipe leading to the 2nd floor trunk. The booster was placed less than a foot from the A-coil on top of the furnace. Removed the booster fan and lo-n-behold, LOTS more air now gets up to the 2nd floor.

Q-Anyone ever have a booster fan that actually improved airflow? I have seen only a few and they have never been placed properly, they end up just getting noisy and annoying for the homeowner.
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ventlilation

I don't know if this is correct place to post this or not, if not you can move it to proper place, Her goes my question is as : if insulation is installed between floor joist in crawl space should you insulate the exterior block walls? The manufactured home has a concrete pad under it
Why I want to know about insulating walls, is their is moisture on the black plastic that covers insulation between floor joists.
I did place the green insulation board on the walls, but wondering if I done the correct thing, also has vents on exterior walls.
I live in southeast ohio, and THANKS for info in advance:(

AC compressor doesnt kick on in condo.

Hey guys. My GF lives in a condo here in NYC. It was built in 2005. She has lived here since 2013. We installed Nest thermostat right away. No issues with installation or anything. Fast foward to this past week and the other day I could have sworn I heard the Nest trying to kick on the AC. I heard maybe 5-6 clicks in a row like it was trying to start the compressor up. I looked at it said "waiting 4min" to kick on again. Didnt think much of it, but I did note it in my mind as not being totally normal. So friday night I wake up at 1 am in a pool of sweat. Go to Nest to see the temp & its 84 degrees in here. Also nest now says "Error E3 no power to unit", Great. Just what I needed! Next morning I whip out the multimeter and test every circut breaker here in the apt. (On a side note the kitchen under cabinet lights stopped working like 2wks ago). Two 20Amp circuit breakers did not have 120 V. One had 9.6V and the other like 2V. I used the multimeter in the outlet that shares the switch with the cabinet lights and sure enough it was giving out 9.6V. The one giving out 2V said AC. Off to home depot. Picked up Milwaukee insulated electrical screwdrivers and 2 new 20amp 1/2" breakers. Go down to the basement and I find another set of circuit breakers labeled "2nd floor" (which is us). Open it up and it has two 100 amp breakers listed as main apt and two 60 amps labeled "AC Comp". I kill the main power and ac compressor, run up stairs and use my multimeter to make sure there is no juice going anywhere. All clear. I switch the two 20 amps in the apt. At this point im super confident I have found the issue and I will be enjoying AC again any moment. Go back down turn the power back on and score 1 for me, kitchen cabinet lights work! Turn on AC next and nothing..... Damn there goes my pat on the back for fixing it. Last thing I could think of was to check the circuit breaker downstairs and make sure those were all puttting out 120V. Yes they are. Stumped again I now go look at the ac room in the apt in the closet. There is the furnace and ac unit stuff a light switch, another red light switch that says emergency gas shut off (for the heat in guessing) & a GFI outlet on the wall. I follow the troubleshooting steps on my iPhone with nest for E3 error. It has me move (red) Rc to Rh. Still nothing. Now it says please call for support. So I sit down with a tall glass of water and call. So they have me testing all sorts of wire combos, put the blue Y1 (if im not mistaken) into where the white W1 was and see if the AC kicks on as the heat. When i did that I got a small pop and i spark from behind the nest. Killed the breaker and now they had me remove all the wires and just twist blue green and red together. Nothing. Then just green and red. (Fan & power) ! The fan kicks on with power! I look again and the GFI outlet in the room with the furnace and ac stuff is tripped again after trying the blue wire before. So right now I am just turning the fan on and off with the circuit breaker I labeled. What is my next option? The only thing I can think of is maybe its a bad GFI outlet and thats somehow tied into the AC compressor? Maybe not since the fan and power wires work together? I asked a neighbor whos lived here the longest if he knows anything about this. He gave me the name of the business that installed these units. I am going to call tomorrow and see what they say. Also asked a friend whos next door neighbor is a contractor im sure he knows a certified hvac guy. I know this really isnt the place to ask for DIY instructions but anything else I can try that I missed? Sorry for this story being so long but im not a happy camper in the summer time and especially if the AC doesnt work!

Thanks to all that read this!

-Jordan

Cleaning a Gas Grill

I am looking into cleaning my gas grill for the first time. I reading where soap and water works well for scrubbing the flavorizer bars and grates. The websites I am reading advise not to use a dishwashing liquid that is lemon or citrus-based. So what is harm in using a lemon scented degreaser?

Tool-Slinger's wet and wild assed Memorial day weekend.

Some of you guys may have noticed I have been unusually silent here the past few weeks, but I do have an explanation for this. My butt is dragging, that about sums it up.

We have had a little rain here in Texas. Rain is a good thing because plants and animals need it to live. Farmers need it for crops, and city people need it for useless wasting of water like they usually do on lawns. We have actually had several dry years in the area so everyone would like to see it rain. We have been praying for rain. But one expects it to be an intermittent sort of thing, rather than a FOCKING ENDLESS NIGHTMARE FROM HE11 THAT NEVER ENDS sort of event. My shop flooded a little bit. Not too bad, this place has always been a little leaky, I twisted out of my cot and pulled on my boots in a quarter inch of water, I have waterproof Wolverine Durashocks.... I might shouldn't complain, because I never got wet, but I think the SPLASH SPLASH SPLASH sound of walking around was sort of starting to wear on me. I already live a very VERY spartan life by choice, I do not have hot running water and I do not need it,... but i do have minimum standards and I just start getting this throbbing sensation in my head I will deal with later.

All of this was before Memorial day weekend. If you could have met me, shook my hand and looked me in the eye at that time, I think you would have been willing to swear on a stack of Bibles that all was good and well with me. But the honest [and silent] truth is, I was already sort of simmering inside. The weather is causing AC problems galore, so I just continued dealing with all that on a daily basis.

A little stressful, but I managed it. I got behind on paperwork, that was more than weather issues, but I was behind. Way behind. I was almost at the point where the 'self discipline' necessity of self employment was flushed down the toilet. Things were not really going well for me.

Then comes Memorial Day weekend. My family is a long drive from me. I would generally leave here Friday and drive back Tuesday. I did not leave Friday, I had to have that paperwork done or be damned. I left late Saturday. I did not even want to go at all. Part of that is normal, I never want to travel but I am usually glad after I did. This trip was different, I had a bad feeling about it. It's almost a psychic thing, the feeling is so strong you can just about taste it in your mouth, but you have no way to rationalize it so you sort of ignore it and just go through the motions. I had already put off one day. Visiting my mother, and other family, I sort of had to go.

Rain. I live in the East of Dallas metroplex. Traveling west. West of here the weather changes dramatically. DRAMATICALLY. The storms are AWESOME and MAGNIFICENT. And I mean Bibically awesome. I remember standing outside as a child unable to look away from the lightning struck clouds as my hair was being swept upwards by the tornadic updraft thing. Anyone reading this has seen storms and you probably think you get it but you are dead wrong. Not even close, other storms in other places are not the same thing. I am not talking only tornadoes,... the lightning, the downpours, the wind, the hail,... it is amazing in that area. "we get tornadoes here" , but you do not have that incredible weather.

So I traveled west during a stormy season, what could possibly go wrong. I hit some hard rain, not too bad. Got most of the way there then got a call saying the electricity was out. I got to the family farm, got soaked talking to the power company guy, I couldn't actually get past the driveway because 2 power line poles were broken off in the previous wind-storm and the lines were about 3 feet off the ground over the driveway. Cannot reach the house. I am now cold, wet, thirsty, and hungry. Fortunately, my Ford has an awesome stereo and I did have the presence of mind to bring plenty of beer and CDs for just such an emergency. It's all about being prepared at the end of the day. So I sat in the driveway and drank and sang a little. I think I have a pretty good voice, nothing remarkable, but I can carry a pretty good tune..

I ain't got no. no no no. hey hey hey.

Well the electric company eventually got the lines cranked up so I could drive through. Having already bypassed motel6 already, and I could not legally drive now, I got to the house and found out they did not have any tap water. yup. No water, no electricity, 7 or 8 people in the house. At least motel6 could have kept the light on for me.

Little did I know at the time, my terror of tribulations had only just begun.

I am going to bust this into a reply because i think it may be too long a story.

COP and operating time of day (running costs)

Just wondering if anyone can give me an idea of how much the coefficient of performance changes on a standard residential air conditioning unit based on the time of day (ie outdoor temperature) in which it is operated.

Essentially I want to know if it's worth while to delay turning the AC on in the afternoon and run the AC mostly at night (say 70-75 degrees external) as opposed to late afternoon (say 85-90 degrees).

I'm thinking of monitoring the compressor amperage to see what happens...

Saturday, May 30, 2015

Vent toilet, shower, and sink for basement fixtures

Hello everyone, Nebraska here and I think we follow UPC Code.

I am wanting to install plumbing 'stub outs' in my basement before my 4" thick concrete floor is poured next week.

My main drain line will be 3", running out the house through the footing.

My main bath upstairs and downstairs are stacked atop each other. Layout is different in each one, but the idea was to get the plumbing all together in one area. The other plan, which so far looks to be a go, is to have a plumbing wall on each side of the long walls in the bathrooms that *do* stack so it's continuous for venting and drains.

Currently I must locate my drains and vents that will have to be done below-slab. I do not have a lot of depth to my PVC Sleeves which are installed in my footings. :o

I plan on making all my connections to mt 3" main drain with Wyes as close to horizontal as possible due to lower clearance.

As you walk in the bathroom, on the right side will be my sink, then toilet, then shower in the corner (with a round or 45 deg edge). On the left side there will be the HVAC & Water Heater enclosed in a little closet area, with a floor drain & vertical waste stack that supports the upstairs fixtures.

Question...To tie the three right fixtures into my main drain, would it be best to use 3 wyes, angled off to each fixture OR to use one wye, and a 45, to create a 'line' if you will, that each fixture ties into in a row. (perhaps making venting a tad easier, but complicating things due to low clearance and trying to obtain a slope.)

Next question would be, how to vent each fixture properly, when I can not just attach a 3x3x2 wye vertically before the pipe switches to horizontal...in my case each fixture will attach to a long el as soon as it gets below the slab level. I'm guessing I can't use a wye on horizontal to run a vent below slab and up into the plumbing wall? :wall:

Anybody from St. Petersburg FL ?

If so; how is the area of 18th Ave S ?

How 'hood-y' is it?

How To Figure CFM from Sensible Heat Loss/Sensible Heat Gain

I am performing a Manual J Residential Room By Room Calculation Load By Hand.

Dinning Room

Sensible Cooling Load: 8,418 B.T.U.H

Sensible Heating Load: 11,453 B.T.U.H.

I don't exactly understand how to do this?

400 CFM Per Ton (12,000 B.T.U.H.)
Whole House Load is 3 Tons (1200 B.T.U.H.)

Should the CFM be figured to match the sensible cooling load or the sensible heating load (which is 3,035 B.T.U.H. more)?

City of Phoenix hiring list is open

The HVAC/Mechanical Systems Technician I position offers experienced technicians the opportunity to join our team in performing skilled and semi-skilled work in the installation, operation, repair, and maintenance of heating and air conditioning systems/components and other mechanical equipment, including automatic doors, pumps, air compressors, and fire/life safety systems, in one or more public buildings. Current vacancies are in the Aviation Department. Vacancies are anticipated over the life of the eligible-to-hire list.
RECRUITMENT DATES
Recruitment may close when we have received a sufficient number of qualified applications.
SALARY
$23.51 (minimum) - $28.69 (maximum) hourly / $48,901 - $59,675 annually. Appointment may be made above the minimum depending on qualifications.
JOB REQUIREMENTS

  • Four (4) years of experience in the operation and maintenance of commercial and industrial heating, ventilation, air conditioning and refrigeration (HVACR) and chilled water distribution systems, industrial motors, pumps, controllers and other mechanical equipment including automatic doors, elevators, and escalators.
  • Must possess EPA 608 HVACR Universal certification at time of application.
  • An equivalent combination of related experience and education may be considered.
  • Working irregular hours, shifts, weekends, holidays, and evenings may be required.
  • Moving objects weighing up to 50 pounds may be required.
  • All positions in the Aviation Department require individuals to pass a Federal Bureau of Investigation (FBI) background check prior to hire.

PREFERRED QUALIFICATIONS
A well-qualified candidate will possess the job requirements listed above, plus:

  • Experience with any of the following Building Automated Systems (BAS): Andover, Johnson Controls/Metasys, Trane Summit or Alerton.
  • The ability to proficiently read and interpret blue prints, performance charts, control panels and PC terminals.
  • Experience with industrial water treatment as it pertains to centralized chilled water plants for comfort cooling applications.

HOW TO APPLY
Apply online by completing the required information and attaching your cover letter and resume. Please include your experience as it relates to the qualifications stated above.
YOUR COVER LETTER AND RESUME, PLUS ANY OTHER REQUESTED MATERIAL, MUST BE IN ONE ATTACHMENT. Only online applications are accepted for this position. The results of the resume screening process will be sent to your primary email address.
WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW

Water seeping into garage/baement during heavy rain

One of my garage walls (part of basement) is about 5 feet below ground level. The wall is concrete block and, during heavy rain, water seeps in at the floor level. About a year ago my son and I excavated the outside of the wall and sealed the entire part of the outside wall that's below ground. We also checked and repaired the French drain. The leak stopped for a year and now it's started back again during real heavy rain. Light rain is no problem. The water comes in at the bottom of the wall at floor level in just one spot. What do I do next?

ge washer won't agitate

I have a ge washer that trips the breaker when it starts to agitate. I've replaced the belt but still trips breaker it spins and drains on that setting put soon as it fills and starts the breaker goes help please

water assist for air cooled condensers

has any used plastic tubes ran thru air cooled condenser with modulated cooled water if condenser is running to hot do to extreme ambient and direct sun conditions to help cool the condenser?

Generally speaking, are pedestal or submersible pumps better?

I have tried to research both as much as I could.

The pros of a submersible sump pump are that it is sealed and cooled by the water that it sits in, so it may not be as susceptible to overheating. However, I have also read reviews (one in which the person literally bought a new one and the motor seal leaked the first time he tried the pump) that stated that these generally fail within 2-3 years on average. Supposedly the submersibles pump more water.

The pedestal sump pumps...the motor is air-cooled and not submerged in water constantly, of course. I have read that these have been known to last up to 15-30 years in cases of really good pumps. They are supposed to be protected from thermal overload. They are more noisy, however.

Why are these becoming less common and the seemingly less durable submersible pump are becoming more common and more expensive than the submersibles?

Burial at Sea

For the folks that served... this story will have a special meaning...
Especially the last sentence.

Burial at Sea
by LtCol George Goodson, USMC (Ret)


In my 76th year, the events of my life appear to me, from time to time, as a series of vignettes. Some were significant; most were trivial. War is the seminal event in
the life of everyone that has endured it. Though I fought in Korea and the Dominican Republic and was wounded there, Vietnam was my war.

Now 42 years have passed and, thankfully, I rarely think of those days in Cambodia, Laos, and the panhandle of North Vietnam where small teams of Americans and Montagnards fought much larger elements of the North Vietnamese Army. Instead I see vignettes: some exotic, some mundane: *The smell of Nuc Mam. *The heat,
dust, and humidity. *The blue exhaust of cycles clogging the streets. *Elephants moving silently through the tall grass. *Hard eyes behind the servile smiles of the villagers. *Standing on a mountain in Laos and hearing a tiger roar. *A young girl squeezing my hand as my medic delivered her baby. *The flowing Ao Dais of the
young women biking down Tran Hung Dao. *My two years as Casualty Notification Officer in North Carolina, Virginia, and Maryland.

It was late 1967. I had just returned after 18 months in Vietnam. Casualties were increasing. I moved my family from Indianapolis to Norfolk, rented a house, enrolled
my children in their fifth or sixth new school, and bought a second car. A week later, I put on my uniform and drove 10 miles to Little Creek, Virginia. I hesitated before entering my new office. Appearance is important to career Marines. I was no longer, if ever, a poster Marine. I had returned from my third tour in Vietnam only 30 days before. At 5'9", I now weighed 128 pounds - 37 pounds below my normal weight. My uniforms fit ludicrously, my skin was yellow from malaria medication, and I think I had a twitch or two.
I straightened my shoulders, walked into the office, looked at the nameplate on a Staff Sergeant's desk and said, "Sergeant Jolly, I'm Lieutenant Colonel Goodson. Here are my orders and my Qualification Jacket." Sergeant Jolly stood, looked carefully at me, took my orders, stuck out his hand; we shook and he asked, "How long were you there, Colonel?" I replied "18 months this time." Jolly breathed, you must be a slow learner Colonel." I smiled. Jolly said, "Colonel, I'll show you to your office and bring in the Sergeant Major. I said, "No, let's just go straight to his office." Jolly nodded, hesitated, and lowered his voice, "Colonel, the Sergeant Major. He's been in this job two years. He's packed pretty tight. I'm worried about him." I nodded. Jolly escorted me into the Sergeant Major's office. "Sergeant Major, this is Colonel Goodson, the new Commanding Officer. The Sergeant Major stood, extended his hand and said, "Good to see you again, Colonel." I responded, "Hello Walt, how are you?" Jolly looked at me, raised an eyebrow, walked out, and closed the door.
I sat down with the Sergeant Major. We had the obligatory cup of coffee and talked about mutual acquaintances. Walt's stress was palpable. Finally, I said, "Walt, what's the hell's wrong?" He turned his chair, looked out the window and said, "George, you're going to wish you were back in Nam before you leave here. I've been in the Marine Corps since 1939. I was in the Pacific 36 months, Korea for 14 months, and Vietnam for 12 months. Now I come here to bury these kids. I'm putting my letter in. I can't take it anymore." I said, "OK Walt. If that's what you want, I'll endorse your request for retirement and do what I can to push it through Headquarters Marine Corps."Sergeant Major Walt Xxxxx retired 12 weeks later. He had been a good Marine for 28 years, but he had seen too much death and too much suffering. He was used up.
Over the next 16 months, I made 28 death notifications, conducted 28 military funerals, and made 30 notifications to the families of Marines that were severely wounded or missing in action. Most of the details of those casualty notifications have now, thankfully, faded from memory. Four, however, remain. *MY FIRST NOTIFICATION* My third or fourth day in Norfolk, I was notified of the death of a 19 year old Marine. This notification came by telephone from Headquarters Marine Corps. The information detailed: *Name, rank, and serial number. *Name, address, and phone number of next of kin. *Date of and limited details about the Marine's death. *Approximate date the body would arrive at the Norfolk Naval Air Station. *A strong recommendation on whether the casket should be opened or closed. The boy's family lived over the border in North Carolina, about 60 miles away. I drove there in a Marine Corps staff car. Crossing the state line into North Carolina, I stopped at a small country store / service station / Post Office. I went in to ask directions. Three people were in the store. A man and woman approached the small Post Office window. The man held a package. The Storeowner walked up and addressed them by name, "Hello John. Good morning Mrs. Cooper." I was stunned. My casualty's next-of-kin's name was John Cooper! I hesitated, then stepped forward and said, "I beg your pardon. Are you Mr. and Mrs. John Cooper of (address)?" The father looked at me-I was in uniform - and then, shaking, bent at the waist, he vomited. His wife looked horrified at him and then at me. Understanding came into her eyes and she collapsed in slow motion. I think I caught her before she hit the floor.
The owner took a bottle of whiskey out of a drawer and handed it to Mr. Cooper who drank. I answered their questions for a few minutes. Then I drove them home in my staff car. The store owner locked the store and followed in their truck. We stayed an hour or so until the family began arriving. I returned the storeowner to his business. He thanked me and said, "Mister, I wouldn't have your job for a million dollars." I shook his hand and said; "Neither would I." I vaguely remember the drive back to Norfolk. Violating about five Marine Corps regulations, I drove the staff car straight to my house. I sat with my family while they ate dinner, went into the den, closed the door, and sat there all night, alone. My Marines steered clear of me for days. I had made my first death notification.
*THE FUNERALS* Weeks passed with more notifications and more funerals. I borrowed Marines from the local Marine Corps Reserve and taught them to conduct a military funeral: how to carry a casket, how to fire the volleys and how to fold the flag. When I presented the flag to the mother, wife, or father, I always said, "All Marines share in your grief." I had been instructed to say, "On behalf of a grateful nation...." I didn't think the nation was grateful, so I didn't say that.Sometimes, my emotions got the best of me and I couldn't speak. When that happened, I just handed them the flag and touched a shoulder. They would look at me and nod. Once a mother said to me, "I'm so sorry you have this terrible job." My eyes filled with tears and I leaned over and kissed her.
*ANOTHER NOTIFICATION* Six weeks after my first notification, I had another. This was a young PFC. I drove to his mother's house. As always, I was in uniform and driving a Marine Corps staff car. I parked in front of the house, took a deep breath, and walked towards the house. Suddenly the door flew open, a middle-aged woman rushed out. She looked at me and ran across the yard, screaming "NO! NO! NO! NO!" I hesitated. Neighbors came out. I ran to her, grabbed her, and whispered stupid things to reassure her. She collapsed. I picked her up and carried her into the house. Eight or nine neighbors followed. Ten or fifteen later, the father came in followed by ambulance personnel. I have no recollection of leaving. The funeral took place about two weeks later. We went through the drill. The mother never looked at me. The father looked at me once and shook his head sadly.
*ANOTHER NOTIFICATION* One morning, as I walked in the office, the phone was ringing. Sergeant Jolly held the phone up and said, "You've got another one, Colonel." I nodded, walked into my office, picked up the phone, took notes, thanked the officer making the call, I have no idea why, and hung up. Jolly, who had listened, came in with a special Telephone Directory that translates telephone numbers into the person's address and place of employment. The father of this casualty was a Longshoreman. He lived a mile from my office. I called the Longshoreman's Union Office and asked for the Business Manager. He answered the phone, I told him who I was, and asked for the father's schedule. The Business Manager asked, "Is it his son?" I said nothing. After a moment, he said, in a low voice, "Tom is at home today." I said, "Don't call him. I'll take care of that." The Business Manager said, "Aye, Aye Sir," and then explained, "Tom and I were Marines in WWII." I got in my staff car and drove to the house. I was in uniform. I knocked and a woman in her early forties answered the door. I saw instantly that she was clueless. I asked, "Is Mr. Smith home?" She smiled pleasantly and responded, "Yes, but he's eating breakfast now. Can you come back later?" I said, "I'm sorry. It's important. I need to see him now." She nodded, stepped back into the beach house and said, "Tom, it's for you." A moment later, a ruddy man in his late forties, appeared at the door. He looked at me, turned absolutely pale, steadied himself, and said, "Jesus Christ man, he's only been there three weeks!"
Months passed. More notifications and more funerals. Then one day while I was running, Sergeant Jolly stepped outside the building and gave a loud whistle, two fingers in his mouth...... I never could do that..... and held an imaginary phone to his ear. Another call from Headquarters Marine Corps. I took notes, said, "Got it." and hung up. I had stopped saying "Thank You" long ago. Jolly, "Where?" Me, "Eastern Shore of Maryland. The father is a retired Chief Petty Officer. His brother will accompany the body back from Vietnam...." Jolly shook his head slowly, straightened, and then said, "This time of day, it'll take three hours to get there and back. I'll call the Naval Air Station and borrow a helicopter. And I'll have Captain Tolliver get one of his men to meet you and drive you to the Chief's home." He did, and 40 minutes later, I was knocking on the father's door. He opened the door, looked at me, then looked at the Marine standing at parade rest beside the car, and asked, "Which one of my boys was it, Colonel?" I stayed a couple of hours, gave him all the information, my office and home phone number and told him to call me, anytime. He called me that evening about 2300 (11:00PM). "I've gone through my boy's papers and found his will. He asked to be buried at sea. Can you make that happen?" I said, "Yes I can, Chief. I can and I will."
My wife who had been listening said, "Can you do that?" I told her, "I have no idea. But I'm going to break my ass trying." I called Lieutenant General Alpha Bowser, Commanding General, Fleet Marine Force Atlantic, at home about 2330, explained the situation, and asked, "General, can you get me a quick appointment with the Admiral at Atlantic Fleet Headquarters?" General Bowser said," George, you be there tomorrow at 0900. He will see you. I was and the Admiral did. He said coldly, "How can the Navy help the Marine Corps, Colonel." I told him the story. He turned to his Chief of Staff and said, "Which is the sharpest destroyer in port?" The Chief of Staff responded with a name. The Admiral called the ship, "Captain, you're going to do a burial at sea. You'll report to a Marine Lieutenant Colonel Goodson until this mission is completed... " He hung up, looked at me, and said, "The next time you need a ship, Colonel, call me. You don't have to sic Al Bowser on my ass." I responded, "Aye Aye, Sir" and got the h-ll out of his office.
I went to the ship and met with the Captain, Executive Officer, and the Senior Chief. Sergeant Jolly and I trained the ship's crew for four days. Then Jolly raised a question none of us had thought of. He said, "These government caskets are air tight. How do we keep it from floating?" All the high priced help including me sat there looking dumb. Then the Senior Chief stood and said, "Come on Jolly. I know a bar where the retired guys from World War II hang out." They returned a couple of hours later, slightly the worst for wear, and said, "It's simple; we cut four 12" holes in the outer shell of the casket on each side and insert 300 lbs of lead in the foot end of the casket. We can handle that, no sweat."
The day arrived. The ship and the sailors looked razor sharp. General Bowser, the Admiral, a US Senator, and a Navy Band were on board. The sealed casket was brought aboard and taken below for modification. The ship got underway to the 12-fathom depth. The sun was hot. The ocean flat. The casket was brought aft and placed on a catafalque. The Chaplin spoke. The volleys were fired. The flag was removed, folded, and I gave it to the father. The band played "Eternal Father Strong to Save." The casket was raised slightly at the head and it slid into the sea. The heavy casket plunged straight down about six feet. The incoming water collided with the air pockets in the outer shell. The casket stopped abruptly, rose straight out of the water about three feet, stopped, and slowly slipped back into the sea. The air bubbles rising from the sinking casket sparkled in the in the sunlight as the casket disappeared from sight forever....

The next morning I called a personal friend, Lieutenant General Oscar Peatross, at Headquarters Marine Corps and said, "General, get me out of here. I can't take this anymore." I was transferred two weeks later. I was a good Marine but, after 17 years, I had seen too much death and too much suffering. I was used up. Vacating the house, my family and I drove to the office in a two-car convoy. I said my goodbyes. Sergeant Jolly walked out with me. He waved at my family, looked at me with tears in his eyes, came to attention, saluted, and said, "Well Done, Colonel. Well Done." I felt as if I had received the Medal of Honor!

A veteran is someone who, at one point, wrote a blank check made payable to 'The United States of America for an amount of up to and including their life.'
That is Honor, and there are way too many people in this country who no longer understand it.'

Source of water in basement?

After an abnormal amount of rain, noticed a bit of water in my unfinished basement. We noticed that the landscape is sloped toward, instead of away from the house. Decided to dig and discovered this gap/hole. Does anyone know why this gap is there?

How much R-410a per foot of 3/8" lineset

Yes I will be doing superheat and subcool calcs. Reason I am asking is because I am in sales now and do not have a jug of R-410a. I am going to take an old skool charging cylinder over to a friends and he will weigh in how much I need and a little more just in case.

My condenser is charged for 20 feet, and I have a 35 foot lineset.

which transmission line is which on 4.3L s-10

Trying to figure out which line is the top and which line is the bottom so I can put in new fluid with out running it.

Attach diamond plate rubber matting to drywall in garage - Which adhesive?

I hope this is the right section for this question.

I want to attach an 8' x 3' diamond plate rubber mat runner on the garage drywall next to my wife's car to prevent the door from dinging the drywall if it bumps it.

The rubber runner I've purchased is: Check Plate Rolled Rubber Mat (by the foot) | Princess Auto

I'd rather use adhesive over screws to attach it to the wall. Does anyone have recommendations for the best instant grip adhesive for rubber to drywall?

Thanks

Joe

Compressor Amps Heat mode?

Hey guys doing a maintenance on a 2 ton split system heat pump r22. Cleaned condenser coil and pressures are good also replaced contactor due to burnt contacts. Customer says unit cools and heats well. He does not have any issues. When checking compressor amps in cooling im under my RLA. Data nameplate compressor RLA 13.5. In heat mode im drawing 16 amps. Is this normal. Compressor does not go off on thermal overload. Is this normal?

Trane a/c & thermostat comparisons.

I'm considering purchasing a replacement system here in inland central Florida. This will replace my 12 year old XR12 unit with XR80 furnace which has provided comfortable temp control at reasonable operating cost using a Lux setback stat. The residence is a 1600 sq ft ranch with 10 ft ceilings. I'm considering a Trane XR14 with XR80 furnace (cheapest), XR16 with XV80 (approx a grand higher) or possibly the Carrier Comfort 16 with 58PHA(?) indoor unit (another 10% over the XR16). Any comments and recommendations will be appreciated.

Also, the Trane "Comfort Specialist" wants to include the Trane XL824 stat which has features like remote access which I'll never use. I'm more concerned with user friendliness, functions like accurate temp control with max. +/- 1 degree F temp variation, humidity control for the 16 SEER units & possibly vacation settings over bells & whistles like color touch screens. The Lux TX9600, Honeywell RTH7600D or 8500D or even the Trane XL624 look like good choices if the seller will drop the price of the XL824 which I'm told doesn't have vacation setting mode.
Many thanks, in advance, for your professional input!

Ceiling fan/light not working after new light switch install

Hi - I just installed a new light switch on my ceiling fan, and neither the fan nor the light will work. Fortunately, I can say for sure that there isn't a problem with the breaker (another fixture on the same one works fine), but otherwise, I'm at a complete loss. The only point that differs from the original setup is that I have wire nuts connecting the new switch's wires (black) to the wires that ran directly into the old switch (blue). I can't see why this would be a problem, though.

To reiterate, the entire fixture (fan and light) does nothing, even though I've only replaced the light switch. And, when I talk about the switch, I'm referring solely to the pull switch on the fan, NOT the wall switch.

Solutions?

Thanks!
John

POE oil concerns questions??

should I worry? Quart can used one or two ounces. remainder of the oil in the can cap tight - if can stored in van will it collect moisture? note there will be some air in the top of the can. :eek2::angel: if you think it will absorb moisture idea solder Schrader valve access on can top give it a little vacuum? your comments please opinions ideas thank you :det: :.02:

Replace drywall wall with balusters

I have a short wall going down my stairs that I'd like to replace with balusters, which I think would make my room feel more open. Here is a picture of what I want to do:

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Here's what the other side of the wall looks like:

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My questions are:
1) Can I do this myself? I'd still call myself a novice, and I'm nervous about working with angles and structures that could fail and cause injury.
2) Where do I start? I'm been searching all over and haven't been able to find a good set of instructions that are applicable to my situation.

Thanks for the help.
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Is this stay brite?

Is this stay brite? I've never seen it before.
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Condensate Pouring From Spiral Duct

Had a new customer call for regular maintenance on 3 RTU's. Goodman 10 ton gas packs. 5 years old. Stated one leaks water from supply duct since date of install. Only when in cooling mode. Looks like the installers used a curb adaptor on top of a an existing curb adaptor. The new curb adaptor is 180 degrees to the existing one. These are the cheapest made RTU's I have ever seen. Cleaned the coils, changed filters and belt. Tested the drain pan with 2 gallons of water. No leaks. Unit insulation was damp on supply and return air compartments. Light rust on blower motor, pulley... After running for a hour condensate is pouring from the spiral duct like a stream. The condensate pan is sweating like crazy. It also flowing out the drain line the same. The two scroll compressors are sweating too. It looks like the condensate is being suck from the compressor compartment back into the return air section. Not sure if it has a high static blower. Blower discharge dumps into a 14" space on one end of the curb and has to travel 5' to the supply drop. Static pressure at the drop and at the spiral ranges from .2 to .35". Which is way too high for the standard blower motor. I really think its going negative somewhere in the curb. Even the bottom pan of the return compartment, which is hanging over the curb adaptor is sweating. Dripping onto the curb. The installing company sent a ton of techs back and couldn't resolve the situation. I noticed they tried to caulk the seam separating the compressor compartment to the SA and RA sections. They apparently walked away saying it was due to high humidity levels in the dining room. Ironically the second unit that serves the same area is 20' away and doesn't have a problem. Same duct design. Though that and the 3rd unit are mated end to end and side to side with the existing curbs. Thus my assumption for a negative condition in some area of the curb adaptor. I'm only a tech, not an engineer. I pretty much told the customer he would need to have to resolve it with the original company that installed it or contact Goodman direct. Like I said before the design is crap. All the cover screw hole were pre-stripped from the factories. I did go in with larger screws to lock them in tight. The metal gauge is paper thin. It still bugs me that I don't have a definitive explanation for the condition. I won't be going back because my company has pretty much washed their hands in getting involved with it. I believe I have assessed everything correctly but have hit an area where I don't have the knowledge to proceed further. It sucks going into grey areas that I can put my finger on and have a 100% correct diagnosis without facts to back it up.

Caulking Interior Door Stop

I bought five special order custom sized pre-hung interior doors from Lowes but I wasn't happy about how the door stops met in the corners (the skinny piece of wood on the inside of the jamb that stops the door from swinging through to the other side). Instead of having an angled cut in the corners the side pieces go all the up and the top piece of door stop lines up square in the corners.

I complained about it but the Lowes rep said I should caulk where the door stop meets the jamb and this will hide all seams and therefore the ugly door stop corners will be hidden.

In theory the rep is correct, if all the door stop seams are caulked then the corner cuts will not show. For that matter, after caulking, the entire door stop will look like one piece. But my concern is, does anyone ever caulk the seam where the door stop meets the jamb? After caulking and painting will the caulking residue be seen through the paint?

For reference, I bought two special order doors from Home Depot and they corners were cut at an angle and look perfect.

Liftmaster Professional Garage Door Opener intermittently not operating

Hey everyone! - okay, so I have a weird intermittent problem with my LiftMaster "Professional Formula I" garage door opener (1/2 HP, 6.0A, Model 3280-267, Manufacture Date 6/19/2006, Part No: 41AB050-2).

About 4 weeks ago, when trying to get the garage door to open by pressing the wall button mounted in our garage, nothing moved. The light bulb mounted in the unit switched on when I pressed the button, so I know that power is getting to the device, and that it 'thinks' it has been turned on.

Unsure of what was going on, I manually unclipped the door from the drive belt thingy by pulling the red handle, raised the door up and down a few times, then hit the button again. It worked with no load on it, and 'clipped' back into the door and then it worked fine for a few weeks.

It has started happening with more and more frequency however, (although of course today it is working fine), and I am starting to think that the 'unclipping' of the door was a coincidental fix because there are some instances where the issue occurs (no movement) even when the door is unclipped and the opened is under no load.

So - I cracked it open this morning and just looked around. Here are pictures from a variety of angles. Circuit board has no obvious intermittent solder joints or anything like that, but hard to know for sure just on visual inspection. While not an expert, I tend to think that "black junk" fallen on the white gear is probably not good for whatever sits above the white gear, but again not sure if that's just wear and tear for a 9-year old unit, or it's part of the cause for what's going on. Thoughts? Is it the bearing or gear? An intermittent relay problem? Many thanks - here are the pics (sorry they are upside down - thanks to my iPhone, but it should not effect getting the point across hopefully)
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FHP 2.5ton R22 compressor replacement

where can I find a 2.5 ton compressor for my geothermal unit?
the compressor # is : 739103-1757-00
model # is : H29B28UABCA OC-25
208-230v , 14.7RLA, 73LRA

Need a new remote for garage door opener- will a generic remote work?

Hi guys,

I have a really simple question. We have an Overhead Door (Model 1020), and we need an additional remote.

Can I just buy any remove from the local Home Depot, then re-program it (with the door opener's 'Learn' button)? Or, do I need to get a specific type of remote that is compatible with my particular model?

I know how generic and simple this question probably is, but any help would be appreciated.

14 SEER versus 15

A question posed to those who understand SEER ratings and actual cost savings better than I: just how much savings could a homeowner expect in real dollars per year with a 15 SEER system as opposed to 14?

A standard Trane XR14 is listed with these specs:

SEER 14.00


EER 11.50


HEAT CAPACITY 34000


KW 2.67


HSPF 8.2


COP 3.7


A standard Trane XR15 with these:


SEER 15.00


EER 12.50


HEAT CAPACITY 34000


KW 2.49


HSPF 9.5


COP 4.0


The question is, just how significant is the difference between these two systems?

In real dollars, would the homeowner see significantly lower utility bills with the latter?

Please Help: Dark grout in master bath shower (pics included)

Hi - I could use some help from some experts. We built a house and moved in Nov 2013. A few months after moving in we noticed that the bottom row of grout in our master shower was growing darker than the rest of the shower and never lightened back up. When we moved in, all of the grout was the same color. We did seal the grout when we moved in.

We've asked our builder to look at it multiple times and were originally told it was soap scum or something and just needed cleaned, although when they scratched the grout, nothing came off. We since shave bought $50 worth of cleaner including Finnazle and other soap scum and grout cleaners we found in these forums and nothing has helped. Most recently, the builder came out with the tile installer and they scraped off some of the caulking along the bottom of the shower pan (there is caulk all along the bottom of the plastic pan where the tile meets the pan, except for leaving the weep holes clear of caulk). They then stuck a paper towel back between the tile and pan and noticed some wetness. The installer said they wanted to recommend removing the bottom row of tile to investigate because they couldn't know what's going on without doing so; however, when the builder called to schedule the appointment they said the new recommendation was to just use a tile grout stain sealer to match the grout color that is now darkened to the rest of the tile. Sounds like a cove rip job to me, but not sure and I'm worried there could be a bigger issue.

Can anyone help or has anyone experienced this? I'm also concerned that there is dark color behind the caulk along the shower pan, which in past experience has been mold.

Please help...
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This Old House

I have a couple of questions concerning the hosts/crew on both This Old House and Ask This Old House.

On both shows it seems to me that the hosts simply MUST rub their hands on anything and everything in the house, be it the floor, the counter tops, the cabinetry or furnishings. Why? I never have a need to get down and rub the floor at any house I visit nor do I do this anywhere else?

On ATOH they have a segment where one of the hosts brings out some silly looking thing and the others try to guess what it is. They try to be funny but fail miserably. In the end the thing is usually a really stupid idea that is more trouble than it is worth for some minor job. Does anyone else see this segment as just plain stupid and a waste of time?

And at the end of each program Kevin O'Conner says, "Until next time I'm Kevin O'Conner for ..." Who is he going to be when "next time" comes about? Why doesn't he just say, "I"m Kevin O'Conner for..."

coil for a deli case

hi , any one have a supplier/manufacturer of coils for a deli case ,.

securing breakers on bus

How can I tell if the breakers are securely attached to the bus bar of my square d panel?

Is pushing on the face of each one (with the cover on) to assure there is no movement in and out a sufficient test? Kind of like making sure they are snapped totally inward.

I noticed there is a little up and down movement/wiggle to the ones on the top of each row.... does that seem normal?

Fencing Advice?

Which type of fences should i use to promote for the client's company?
He's running a fencing company and we decided to pick one type of fence and use it for company promotion. So we like to know what to pick,

- cheap and best -chain link or
- modern vinyl or
- secure barbed wire...?

what do u suggest?

Thanks.

Chiller training/educational material

Hey now fellas,
I'm an unemployed former light commercial HVACR Tech hoping to get back into the field next week, got several interviews lined out. Some of the outfits I'm guna talk to do some bigger comm jobs And service on chillers and other cool equipment. I've always being super stoked to learn to service and repair the big complex units. Is there any of you fine gentlemen who may be able to email some training or service guides or any material at all that I can read and study and keep as references so I can get a head start. Any help at all would be most greatly appreciated. Thanks

Adding Joists to Reduce Deflection for Tile Floor

I need to reduce the deflection for ceramic tile floors in 2 bathrooms located side by side over the same joist span. I have to add the support from underneath because I already finished tiling one of the bathrooms without doing anything to reduce the deflection. The drywall ceiling below needs to be replaced anyway b/c of planned renovations to the kitchen below. I already have some access to view into the joist bay, and only see one wire running through the bay and that wire needs to be moved anyway during the kitchen renovation.

House was built in MD in the 1980's. Joist span is 14' 3", with SPF 2 x 10 joists (9.25" high) spaced 16" on center, topped with 19/32" thick tongue and groove plywood that was nailed and glued to the joists. The two 5' wide bathrooms cover 10' of this joist span.

How should I reduce the deflection?

Could it be done with just blocking or steel bracing or do I need to add additional 14' 3" joists?

If I need joists, should I sister them to the other joists or try to center them to create 8" on center joists? One of them can't be centered b/c of toilet pipes.

When I viewed the joist bay, I expected to see an open end where the end of the joists rest on the interior load bearing wall in the center of my house, but the end was closed. Is that probably blocking, a rim joist, or something else?

Thank you in advance for your help.

Single tile replacement in shower

I had a plumbing leak in my shower, and the plumber punched a hole through one of the tiles to find and repair it. The tiles are 8x12 and he removed most of one along with the layer supporting it (cement board?) leaving a hole in the wall looking at the supply pipes, but no studs.
I have a few tiles left over from when I redid the bathroom thankfully, but what is the best method for installing the tile?
Can I just glue some wood strips to the back of the remaining sub layer and then screw a cement board patch before putting the tile in with thinset?

410 gauges

Are there any good combo gauges on market that work for r22 and 410a at reasonable prices. Any recommendations?

Friday, May 29, 2015

Redlink help

About 2 months ago I installed a new zone system on a 90% furnace/AC. It was a truezone 4 zone panel, 4 visonpro 8000's and a red link gateway. 2 stats only had 3 conductors so I wired r,c,and w for the heat and linked them all to the gateway. The plan was to return with a wireless adapter for the 2 zones. So today I install the adapter for the 2 zones but when I went into " add a device it would not recognize the stats until I restored factory settings and selected " wireless to zone panel" . The problem now, is once I do that it no longer gives me the option to add a device in "wireless management" on the Stat and can't link the gateway. And that's what the customer wants. So he actually had me put it back the way it was where he can only control the heat but it shows up on his tablet. I had it so the whole system 100% heating and cooling if you wanted to control them on the stats but 2 zones didn't show on the computer. Does anyone have any incite on red link that can point me in the right direction? Also once I selected "wireless to zone panel" it never prompts me to add redlink devices and goes right to other installer setups but if I select "wired to panel" the next prompt is for redlink devices.

How do I fit a storm door that is too narrow?

There's about an inch and a half gap left in the doorway when I tried to put in a storm door. Storm door was supposed to be 36 inches wide when in actuality it turned out to be 35 1/8" . How do I make it fit?

Democrat's cutting edge corruption

today I went to a customer's house who is a senior citizen.

she says "have you ever heard of Ted Cruz?"
I said "ma'am there's one point two million people out here named Ted Cruz"
she says "no, this man is running for president of the united states of America"
I said "the guy from Texas ?"
she says "I don't know where the hell he's from"
I said "what about him?"
she says "he's calling my house 5 times a day, and after 9 o'clock. the caller ID says Ted Cruz"


so I guess the socialists made a "super pac" that is "for" Ted Cruz, then they harass the sht out of senior citizens until they can't wait to run down to the polls and vote against him.

I said "how do you know some organization isn't trying to piss you off so you'll vote against Ted Cruz?"
she says "I didn't think of that"

Patio sliding door sub sill

I have continuous pour concrete slab from rec room out to patio. Am installing new vinyl sliding door and want to know if sub sill is necessary or can I just install door right on slab?

Service tech needed in Portland, Or

Hello,

Looking for a service tech, experienced for residential and light commercial HVAC repair work. Refrigeration know.edge would be a plus but not required. Let me know if interested

Gardeners

Suction line was no match for the hedge trimmer
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Kohler k-2972 shower valve install

I purchased the kohler valve and control valve and I never know how deep they supposed to go . Why is it say minimum and maximum finish wall how can it be minimum and maximum how to read this so in the future I want have this problem ? How to roughen in valves correctly ? Please help .

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Question about lightning and circuit breakers

This falls under the category of "something I've always wanted to ask but thought it might be a stupid question.."

I, like many people, try to be vigilant about unplugging major appliances if a thunderstorm is coming in order to protect them from lightning strikes, surges, etc. However, would I get the same effect by simply shutting off the main breaker, thereby killing all power to the house until after the storm passes? In other words, does shutting off a breaker have enough of a disconnect to safeguard any power from a lightning strike from getting through?

Warm suction line with proper pressures?

Working on a carrier 48TFE012-A-111 R22 system. The system is not cooling, room temp 78F, return Air temp 72F, Supply 60F. Disconnected outside air sensor, outside damper closed, Outside ambient 64F. Pressures on the gauge reads 225psi on the discharge and 60 psi on the suction. But the suction line is not cold to touch. (I didn't get the super heat).
The second stage compressor has a higher suction pressure and a lower (proper, estimated) temp cold to touch.

The unit is for a gymnastics place, and so the evaporator has been covered with the chalk they use on there hands, The evaporator was just cleaned and an on going problem (even so a plugged evap should cause the unit to freeze over)
Its a fixed orifice unit. What are the possibilities of a fixed orifice wearing out (becoming bigger) or non combustibles in the system?

testing speaker impedence low ohms

I have a subwoofer in my car stereo system that may be bad or going bad. To find out, the support tech told me I could check impedence with a multimeter, and gave me the spec of .35 ohms as the proper spec for this subwoofer. My multimeter ohms settings ranges are 200, 2000, 20K, and 200K, and 2000K. So it seems with my multimeter I probably cannot measure an accurate readout because the ohm setting doesn't really go down into that low of range?

closed thread / blower motor

hey beenthere ,,, why did you close my thread ,you on some power trip or what ? ,,,, a diy thread would read ,,,show me how to change out the blower motor or im changing the blower motor myself ,,, instead I specifically asked for opinions on having changing the motor to increase cfm , I merely wanted to educate myself before I called another contractor and be subject to what ever they say one contractor last summer suggested just that , that he can replace the motor to increase the cfm , because I spent 3000 dollars to kellys hvac , a contractor yes for this unit and my house is still hot as you are gonna be after reading this thread ,,, this contractor keeps giving me excuses and wants more money and now you shut me down for trying to educate myself , im willing to bet not one who replied thought I was aski8ng for DIY

Non shorted to ground compressor tripping breaker?

2004 38yc042 Carrier heat pump, copeland compressor, popping c/b at fuse panel when ac comes on. MAX amp pull was 97A, measured at L1 coming in to the contactor cuz it was convenient, pops breaker right away.

Did not notice any 'smoked' areas, wires or boards. There was some green fluid at the start capacitor which previous tech had installed lying on its side.

Pulled compressor plug off and ohmed all 3 to ground, they all 3 had infinite resistance and to corrosion at all. Between the 3 terminals at the compressor I measured 1.4, 2.9, and 3.2(s-r).

Left the compressor unplugged and turned on ac and the condenser fan motor came on and stayed running. Disconnected the cch, hooked up the compressor again and the breaker popped right away, disconnected compressor plug and condenser fan runs.

Q- should I have checked the amp pull with my meter around the common wire between compressor and contactor?

Can a compressor that does not show a direct short to ground be causing the breaker to pop?

What type of pumps would be best for this situation?

Brick house built in 1950. The former owners were forced by the FHA to put the hot water heater (which was in the kitchen where our fridge is now, venting through the kitchen ceiling) in the crawlspace dirt basement before the house could be sold to my parents. So, they dug out an area about 15 feet long by 3.5 feet wide and surrounded it with stacked cinderblocks with mortar. It is about 3.5+ feet deep and you can stand up in that dug out area. It is also 3.5+ feet below the outside ground. They put the water heater at the higher end with a slight elevation. At the lower end, they stuck a sump pump randomly on top of the dirt. It wasn't really a "sump".

This is what I am referring to about a dirt bottom and cinderblocks on the sides. The heating and air machine was also installed down there in between the water heater and sump area:

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The water runs in through the cracks in the mortar holding the cinderblocks together, and they also turned a few of the cinderblocks on the very bottom so that the two holes would allow water through. As you can see, there is a lot of "loose" type dirt all the way around this bricked-off area and the whole crawlspace basement is like that in general. Some of that dirt washes into the hole amongst the water coming through the bricks. When you throw in little clumps of dirt, pebbles of cement/mortar, etc., it can be a mess.

This is my mother's home. Being a DIYer, I dug out the sump until I hit rocks too big to move and turned it into this years ago:

View image: IMG 0889

A main pedestal pump that I stabilized with the two boards that were hanging down. I also branched off a battery backup pump in case of power failure. Eventually, the backup pump stopped working after a couple of years. Probably seized due to the dirty water and environment. The main pedestal pump (the one pictured) has lasted about a decade or more, but it was really struggling the other day. Yes, it is an ugly sump and basement. I wanted to make it deeper, but couldn't without a jackhammer.

The other day we had a massive thunderstorm with rain like I have never seen before. It seemed like a cloudburst. About 5+ inches of water in the yards and flowing like a stream from yard to yard, with a foot of water running down the entire road from side to side. I went down to the basement to find the pump on continuously on and looking like this:

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This was a 20-minute thunderstorm that dumped probably 2-3 inches of water. As you can see, the pedestal pump itself barely escaped a watery death. It was 3-4 inches before it would have started going into the motor. The heating/air machine almost got it, as well...it is elevated for that very reason and the water didn't make it up to it. The hot water heater got a few inches of water over the bottom (enough to put it out...haven't tried to restart that yet).

Obviously, this was a high flow of water. We have never seen this much water come from a downpour before. I have pondered some type of submersible pump (but fear it may seize/clog), because the water came within 3 inches or so of overtopping the motor on the pedestal pump. Or a more powerful pedestal pump. The one pictured is a 1/3HP, 2800 GPH @ 5ft head. However, our head is 10ft, so it is probably more like 2,300 GPH and maybe a little less since it is older. That's about 38 GPM and it couldn't handle it and was coming in much faster.

Fortunately, the water subsided slowly and the pump got it all out and eventually back to normal. I thought it wasn't going to make it and that everything would flood. The pump ran for an hour straight and didn't burn out. It pumped it all out and is regularly coming on at about 30 minute intervals now to get rid of the remaining seepage.

Is there a good combo pump of some sort that would be able to handle this dirty water without seizing? A main pump and battery backup is needed. Any suggestions? Also, do most main pump and backup systems share the same pipe for higher flow pumps?

As in...say that both pumps (battery backup and main) ran at once if the main pump got overwhelmed somehow. Would they be trying to cancel one another out or would the force simply combine and shoot the water out faster?

I have read a lot about submersible pumps and issues that people have had with them leaking around the seals or not working after only 2-3 years. A lot of combo units for $300+ come together with the submersible pumps and backup.

Or, I was thinking of something like the Wayne SPV800 Cast Iron Pedestal Pump that would get about 3,800 GPH @ 10ft head and adding my own backup pump (not sure which to get yet) to that. However, instead of the backup being in the sump bottom...probably putting it a little below the top of it to keep it from clogging since the motor isn't very powerful.

It appears that many backup pumps aren't very powerful, being only 12V. The catch-22 is that, like most people, I can't afford a thousand dollar machine and she can't either. I know that they make 24V pumps that use 2 marine batteries, but those seem to go bad every few years and it doesn't seem worth it.

Can anyone give me any advice as to which would be better to get? Cast-iron pedestal like the phone I posted or submersible? I'm planning to elevate either with a concrete slab in the pit, but given all of the dirt and muddy water that runs through, I'm worried about the environment getting to them.

Yes, the runoff and general seepage of the property is an issue. The seepage around the foundation probably needs to be fixed. When she sells the house in the future (as-is), she won't be dealing with it. So I'm looking for something to get her by for 2-3 years until it isn't her problem anymore. It appears that something around or in excess of 4,000GPH is needed. 1/2HP seems to do the trick, instead of the 1/3HP currently.